Often as a cyclist you will have an eye on some particular route or climb that you would like to tackle. Hence, I found myself in the grounds of Drumlanrig Castle in a very wet Dumfries and Galloway yesterday. I was there to tackle the Wanlockhead Gold Rush. An old school mountain bike route of around 50 Km that takes you up into the hills surrounding Wanlockhead, a village nestled amongst the southern uplands, which has the coveted glory of being the highest in Scotland. As well as this lofty accolade, Wanlockhead came into existence because of the rich minerals that existed in the surrounding area. Lead, Copper, Zinc and Silver have all been mined in this area, an industry that probably started with those enterprising Romans, who exploited the area for its mineral wealth. Gold was also found and the hills surrounding Wanlockhead gave birth to some hectic enterprise’s in the 16th Century. Mining petered out in the 1950’s though and these days, you still might find the odd pan-handler looking to discover their fortune.
The bike route starts from the grounds of Drumlanrig Castle and for the first 10 Km, follows the west bank of the River Nith. You take the main driveway of the castle and then turn left as you come to the river. The first half of this is wooded on typical forest track. For the first hour, it rained incessantly hard and I could already feel my winter boots filling up with water. July in Scotland! I pressed on though and eventually the route opens up a little. There was a small landslide just after Crairiehill – as some of the bank had sluiced into the river, some 20m below, but it is all passable by bike. The going was very wet with many standing (and deep) puddles to negotiate. Thankfully, the weather eased up a little and I could afford to feel a little more optimistic. After skirting a farm field, you drop down onto a tarmac single-track road, turn right and follow this for another 4Km to the bridge at Eliock Grange.
There is a short section on the A76 south, before turning up the B797 road at Mennock. After 1 Km, there is a left hand farm track across a bridge followed by a brutal climb up to the farm at Auchentaggart. After the farm, you are on the open moorland. This is the time to start counting the farm gates to pass through; there are many…
Skirting the trees on Auchentaggart Moor
The clouds still looked a bit ominous, but the rain dried up to the odd spit and the views were pretty good across the open rolling hills. From here you follow the track until you come to the Southern Upland Way, a coast to coast walking route from Portpatrick to Cockburnspath. A right turn and your on the path, which you follow all the way to Wanlockhead. At first, this is all rideable across spongy bog but there is a nasty kick up a very steep climb, which is not-rideable. In fact, pushing the bike for 15-20 mins makes for pretty hard going. Thankfully, at the top of this mound, you can remount, climbing up and over the hills until you drop back down on a grassy path to Cogshead. As you look up the moor, you can see the path and it looks pretty tortuous – it is! However, despite being a slug-fest, it is mostly rideable, although my heart rate hardly dropped below 90%.
On the Southern Upland Way
The path skirts around the left of Glengaber Hill and there is a thankful respite for the legs as you drop down the hillside to Wanlock Water. Across the valley, you cannot miss the grey scars of early mineworking’s; the rubble tips and abandoned dwellings showing the industry that once thrived here.
Abandoned working’s at Wanlockhead
Coming into Wanlockhead itself, the rain began to pick up again. This felt more like winter than July and I received another soaking before I made the village. I decided to stop in the Visitor Centre and Museum of Lead Mining for a breather and a brew. There were plenty of Touring Cyclists but no daft mountain bikers. When the rain eased, it was back into the saddle – trying to erase the cold clammy feeling of dampness by movement. The route continues on the Southern Upland Way and there is more climbing – a brutish kilometre up Stake Hill – I nearly made it but had to dab a foot or two. It is a hard section this up to a small single-track service road, which leads up to the radar system used by NATS (National Air Traffic Services). The climbing continues on the road up to the first communications mast.
Lowther Hill
I am not sure what the gradient is of this little dinky road – but I am pretty sure it kicks up to 20% in places. Once you get around the side of the first mast with your lungs still intact, a small track drops towards a beleach, with East Mount Lowther on the other side. I mistakenly thought, that it would be all a nice downhill from here but unfortunately, in this terrain, you cannot switch off. The route drops down a steep-sided valley with the Enterkin Burn on your left-hand side, following a sheep track that is sometimes hard to find. The drop down to the burn is very steep in places, so this is a very tricky section. I would say that a lot of this is un-rideable – despite what you may have read elsewhere. Especially near the bottom, the track weaves around the burn, which you have to cross 3 or 4 times. After a few days of rain, this is a real pest and difficult on its own, never mind with a bike.
The route is to the left of the telegraph poles
Eventually, the track, faint in places, brings you to a rough Landrover track, which you take on the left. This is a beast of a climb and my tired legs would not take me up. At the first switchback, you go right onto a sheep track. Again, a lot of this was un-rideable and difficult to navigate. My advice would be to skirt around a few small hills – keeping to the right quite high up until the faint sheep track drops to a few section’s of trees. Once you are in the trees, you skirt around a few fields and eventually pop out onto a single-track road at Inglestone. It is mostly downhill from here, until you reach the A702 and then turn right at the Drumlanrig Castle sign at Holestane.
Ride Review
Pro’s
There is no doubt that this is a “Big Country” ride. The views across the rolling Southern Uplands is stupendous. If you are fed up with trail centres and are looking for something a bit more adventurous, then this type of old school ride will definitely take you there. With Wanlockhead village roughly half way, it is an ideal spot for refreshments and a breather. There is plenty of wildlife in the area apart from the usual farm stock – Golden Eagles, Curlew, Grouse. The weather on the open moor can change quickly, so go prepared and make sure you have everything to take care of a mechanical – otherwise it will be a very long walk home.
Con’s
Route finding isn’t easy at times so make sure you pack a map – at least OS Landranger 1:50000. The route passes through a lot of farm terrain and the number of gates and stiles you have to negotiate becomes a little bit tedious – they continually rob you of any rhythm, which is horrible. Weather-wise, I would say choose a dry day after a prolonged period of dry weather. I had to negotiate a lot of boggy ground, which sucked in the front wheel and the continuous crossing of the swollen Enterkin Burn was problematical if you wanted to avoid wet feet. The route is not completely ride-able with quite a few walking sections – there are no major technical obstacles but the terrain is difficult and challenging, especially near the end when limbs are becoming tired. Farm Land means s**t and lots of it. After a while, it becomes tiresome and not exactly picturesque.
Would I recommend this route? Probably not – it is nice in parts and makes for a great challenge, but there are just too many farm obstacles for it to have any rhythm. There are better – more cycle friendly – alternatives in Scotland.
Statistics
Time: 05:55
Distance: 48.94 Km
Elevation Gain: 1350 m
Avg HR: 151 BPM
Farm Gates Opened: 17
Stiles Negotiated: 8
Birds of Prey: 1 Buzzard / 2 Eagles (something big anyway and not a Buzzard)
Sheep spotted: 700
Grouse Scared: 4

